Group Climbing Handbook from the BMC

The British Mountaineering Council have produced a useful guide to taking groups on outdoor crags – ‘The Green Guide for Groups of Climbers’. It can be found here at:


If it could happen, it will one day..

Your Climbing Advisor has been climbing, on and off, for *^% years now, a long time. In this time there are some things which have been mentioned as theoretically possible, but have come under the category of ‘that never really happens….’ – well, sometimes it does!

When climbing a lovely 5.7 bolted route at Indian Cove in Joshua Tree the other day at the start of a climbing trip, I took in the rope for my second and the first runner came out and sailed down the rope. Ordinarily I’d have thought that maybe I’d put in a poor runner (not unheard of!), or that maybe a nut had been unseated by pulling the rope – but it was a bolt!

So clearly the rope, when pulled up, had run in such a way as to cause the gate of the karabiner to be opened against the bolt. Not unimaginable, but the first time I’d seen it – so the moral of the tale is that Murphy’s Law* states that if something can go wrong, it will go wrong – sometime. Thankfully it was in a non-critical situation, but we can all revise our theory so please check out this DMM video – why not?

*Murphy’s Law was named after Captain Edward Murphy, an American engineer who coined the phrase. Follow the link for more info.


Llangattock Crag News

From the BMC, February 2011:
In April 1998 after years of work by Brecon Beacons National Park Authority and the BMC an access agreement was finally reached to allow climbing on Llangattock hillside. A group booking system has been established and group leaders intending to visit the crag should contact Crickhowell Adventure Gear (Tel: 01873 810020) to make bookings. (New ‘phone number)

Bookings can be made up to 8 weeks in advance and there is a limit of 3 groups of up to 15 people (total per group) per day. A small charge is payable to help cover wardening costs and the BMC Access Fund also makes an annual contribution towards costs. There will be no bookings when stock gathering is taking place.

The National Park has produced an information leaflet which includes a code of practice for climbers. Contact the Wardens Section (Tel: 01874 624437) for further details.

Individual climbers access is not affected.